UPCYCLED BESPOKE

A commentary on the cliches of sustainability

&

the need for sustainability responsibility in industry practice.

Up — Cycled Bespoke seeks to address communal issues surrounding the word sustainability, specifically as it relates to luxury fashion brands and the fashion industry as a whole.

Sustainability is a problematic word in that it doesn’t stand for anything because it represents too many things at once. Unfortunately, the immediate assumption and stamina surrounding the word sustainability limits its potential. Just because something is considered sustainable doesn’t mean that the product is of any lesser value, it doesn’t mean that the product is dirty, it doesn’t mean that you have to align with a certain political party, it doesn’t even mean that product has to be 100% recyclable. Sustainability isn’t about green washed practice, it is about responsibility. It doesn’t matter what is it called, it matters how you are doing you are doing it.

This installation is for brands weary of engaging in or publicizing their sustainable practices in fear of diluting their brand image. The foundation of sustainable practice is responsibility and responsibly is all inclusive.

The goal of this project was to address the issue of sustainability, specifically as it relates to fashion and the fashion industry as a whole. Through addressing and reframing sustainability stereotypes like: up-cycling, reducing, reusing, recycling, green washing, etc. it is our hope to reach a new audience and provoke a new way of thinking. It is not common place to hear the term sustainability used in the luxury industry, and if you happen upon it, it is likely kept under-wraps in order to protect brand identity. Unfortunately, the immediate assumption and stamina surrounding the word sustainability limits its potential, but what if it didn’t? Is it possible for us to reframe society’s views on sustainability? Just because something is sustainable doesn’t mean that the product is of any lesser value, it doesn’t mean that that the product is dirty, it doesn’t mean that you have to aline with a certain political party, it doesn’t even mean it has to be 100% recyclable; Sustainability is for everyone and there is a place in it for the luxury fashion industry. In fact, the practices of the luxury industry are more in line with many of the goals of sustainability, as they stand in odds with fast fashion and many high end fabrics/materials are natural as opposed to synthetic.

Our approach was multi faceted; we intended to hack quality, process, and branding. For the garment, we chose a suit. As a staple in the luxury industry, a suit is about the last thing anyone would consider up cycling, which is precisely why we intended to deconstruct it. The process began with gathering suit jackets and trousers from colleagues, neighbors and friends. We then deconstructed the pieces and William and Keeler patterned new pieces from the existing fabric. The process of up cycling a suit is far from the traditional bespoke approach, but that does not devalue the garment. Traditional methods of tailoring were still incorporated with adjustments in process order and design. When discussing quality, our group decided the quality was based on a garment’s longevity. After the garments are sewn, Resin casting was applied to areas high in wear and tear in increase the lifespan of the garment.

The installation event was held on Saturday afternoon, December 17, 2016. The installation was placed at the intersection of 13th street and 5th avenue, an area of high pedestrian traffic. The Up Cycled suit was hung from the top of the garment rack, maintaining its shape with the help of the resin casting. Individuals passing by were given informational material and the option of engaging in conversation regarding our project and the option and industry practice.

This installation in reality is just a preliminary phase of a greater issue. We want our audience to go beyond the individuals in the garment district who stumbled upon our installation; this installation is really for industry leaders and thinkers. This installation is for brands weary of publicizing their sustainable practices in fear or diluting their brand image The foundation of sustainable practice is responsibility and responsibility is all inclusive.

The Design Team

Keeler Near, 20 | BFA Fashion Design, minor Creative Entrepreneurship

“I am interested in pursuing mens ready to wear while keeping the concepts of a sustainable work ethic in mind. I design under the brand name ‘Optimist’ and I hope to continue learning and advancing my work under this name, in line with the practices we have researched for this project and throughout my time at The New School.”

William Stautberg, 21 | BFA Fashion Design

“I approach design through interest in the tradition of tailoring, and take that elsewhere, wherever the story leads. It’s something that I grew up around, and it’s important to me to show how much I cherish that. I feel that working on such a foundation helps your work reach people that it would have never reached before.”

Ann Stone, 21 | BFA Fashion Design, minor Creative Entrepreneurship

“I believe that everyone has power in their own ability to create, but it is what you do with that power that makes all the difference. I am interested in exploring brand development and traditional tailoring techniques specifically as they relate to empowerment and the investment in people and product.”

Lainey Sapnar, 21 | BFA Fashion Design

Interests include exploring the potential of sustainable design practice.